With olive trees as old as 250 to 300 years, it is safe to say that olive production always has been an integral part of the agriculture at Villa Stabbia.
Today the grass is mechanically cut and used as fertilisers alongside with other organic compost. Even the leftovers from harvesting and pruning are useful to fight parasites, whilst the remains from the oil pressing - are all composted and returned to the soil.
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The olive tree was native to Asia Minor and spread from Iran, Syria and Palestine to the rest of the Mediterranean basin 6,000 years ago. It is among the oldest known cultivated trees in the world - being grown before the written language was invented.
Although brought to Southern Italy by the Greeks before, actual cultivation did not occur until the mid-seventh century in Tuscany. The Etruscans inhabited part of western central Italy, roughly the area of modern Tuscany. They learned much from the Greeks but developed the olive culture further to suit their own needs in the northern regions of Italy.
Archaeologically, the Etruscans are famous for their tombs, frescoes and pottery, and it is via these vase paintings and frescoes that some interesting glimpses of the Etruscan life emerges, including their agriculture. Etruscans, young and old, were harvesting olives by beating the tree branches with long sticks to make the fruit fall to the ground, where they were collected by young boys with baskets. Other images found show boys climbing the trees and shaking the olive branches to make the fruit fall. However, at that time olive oil was used not so much for food, but rather for lighting, cosmetics and ointments.
Olive trees were planted in the entire Mediterranean basin under Roman rule. According to the historian Pliny, Italy had "excellent olive oil at reasonable prices" by the first century A.C, "the best in the Mediterranean," he maintained. Actually, olive oil was the hottest commodity in the ancient world, and advanced ships were built for the sole purpose of transporting it to trading posts around the Mediterranean.The Roman Empire's prodigious growth and colonial expansion brought trees to Spain and other colonies in the Iberian Peninsula, and was already in use by the Berber of North Africa when the Romans arrived. With the fall of the Roman Empire in the 5th century, olive cultivation declined for a thousand years.
Due to geographic and climatic limitations, the region of northern Tuscany seems to have been the inland limit of olive cultivation on the Italian peninsula. Despite the harsh climate, Tuscan olives were still grown in great numbers and even favoured by some because of their distinct taste and character, even though by modern standards (and perhaps in ancient times as well) the yield from northern trees is some 10 times less than in southern Italy.
Today, we know that the Tuscan olive oil is especially low in acidity when compared with its southern counterpart, and this may help explain why northern olive oil had such a favourable following over the past millennia.
Due to the Romans and their expanding Empire, the entire known world was introduced to olive cultivation and the benefits derived from the little green fruit. Olive trading routes grew up, and gradually Tuscany's landscape took on its silver-crowned appearance.As it happened with wine some forty years ago, the increasing awareness and appreciation of the product created a demand for quality wine. Similarly there is a learning curve regarding the olive oils. The majority of oils sold on the non-Mediterranean market are unfortunately inferior products bearing little resemblance to the rich full flavour oils that are an essential ingredient to fine Mediterranean cuisine.
Without question, food critics, chefs and connoisseurs tend to agree that some of the most flavoury and highest quality oils come from the region of Tuscany in Italy.
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Olive trees have an almost titanic resistance, a vital force that renders them nearly immortal. Despite the near 0 degrees winters and burning summers, despite truncations, they continue to grow, proud and strong reaching towards the sky, bearing fruit that nourishes and heals inspires and amazes. Temperate climactic conditions, characterized by warm dry summers and rainy winters, favour plentiful harvests; stone, drought, silence, and solitude are the ideal habitat for the majestic olive tree.
The best olive oil comes from the juice of olives from low growing trees, with a lot of room and sun so that the fruit can mature correctly and so that each tree receives sufficient moisture and nutrients from the soil. In organic farming only natural fertilizers are used.
The olive tree is a slow growing tree, which fills during the first 7 years of its life and has a growing productivity between the age of 7 and 35 years. From 35 to 150 years the tree reaches maturity and full production and beyond 150 years the olive tree starts aging though with a remarkable productivity for centuries and sometimes for thousands of years. The olive trees production is cyclical with more production in one year and significantly less the following year.In April a multitude of small, white perfumed flowers appear in groups under the preceding year's leaves. They only last a few weeks. One olive is born for around every 50 flowers.
Olive groves require care throughout the year and the work is labour-intensive. Almost all operations are totally manual and that is the main reason for the high prices of olive oil.
Against the fly, farmers can use anti-parasites, poisoned bait and other parasites of the olive fly that attack its larvae during summer. There is absolutely no use of pesticides at Villa Stabbia, so the only real alternative to prevent the Olive Fly from infesting and destroying the whole crop is to pick before the fly arrives. Luckily, as mentioned before, olives picked before they are fully ripe, also produce a better oil, healthier and tastier.
Another interesting usage of the natural resources to fight another parasite, are the leftovers from the pruning of the trees. The branches are left on the round near the tree, as the parasite Phleotribus scarabeoides, which is constantly looking for an olive tree to lay its eggs in, will use the cut-off branch instead of infesting the tree. A month later, once the egg-laying season is over, the branches are collected and burnt.
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At Villa Stabbia, the following four traditional Tuscan olive
tree varieties are grown:
Leccino is traditionally used to make fine olive oils and a native to Tuscany. It is a tree with a high and constant production, where ripening is early and uniform. The olives are amongst the larger of the classic oil types.
Moraiolo is commonly used with Leccino, Frantoio and other Tuscan cultivars to make Tuscan style olive oils. The tree has a high oil yield, and its oil is appreciated for its high squalene content.
Pendolino Traditionally used as a pollinator tree in Tuscan olive oil groves. The fruits are of average size and the ripening is medium early and simultaneous, where the fruits will turn black. Oil yield is medium high and the oil is appreciated for its organoleptic properties.
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Experienced hand pickers are employed to harvest from the trees. Hand picking protects the olives from bruising, which triggers acidity, and it also protects the trees. Only "almost ripe", undamaged olives are suitable for the very best oil. Split, very unripe or over-ripe olives reduce the fruitiness of the oil and decrease the quality of the end product.
In some places, one can see permanent nets are hung under the trees, to pick up the olives as they fall, however this is not a method endorsed at Villa Stabbia, as windfall olives are usually overripe, bruised or attacked by the Olive Fly and can only be used for bulk oil.
Once the olives are picked, they are temporarily stored in small crates with punctured sides (to optimise the ventilation) - only half filling the crates to avoid any bruising of the olives from the weight of those above.
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In the early 70's the mill was dismantled partially due to high running cost but mainly due to a change in regulations for the residue disposal, as both cake and especially vegetable water in such large quantities are polluting substances, harmful for the environment.
Monitoring the hygienic conditions of the equipment used in the traditional pressure method is very problematic. Unhealthy olives processed just before Villa Stabbia cherished fruits could have a deleterious effect on the quality of the end result.
As timing is so important to achieve a faultless end result, the olives are collected and immediately undergo an accurate selection rejecting all the olives not suited to grant the best quality extra virgin oil.
There is absolutely no harm to the environment with this method. On the contrary as it produces little quantity of vegetable water, the waste can easily be composted and later returned to the field as an excellent fertilizer.
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At Villa Stabbia, the oil is bottled directly from the storage tanks, and immediately plugged. A plastic sleeve is applied to prevent possible leakage. The bottle has a small booklet attached to it, with some history of the oil, where, why and how it was made.
Olive oil is time, heat, and light sensitive. Unlike a good wine that will improve with age, the natural decay of the oil is unstoppable. Though ensuring the best storing conditions will highly contribute to extend the shelf life. The EU regulations do not specify an expiring date - "termine minimo di conservazione" - as long as - for the indicated time on the label the oil will remain extra virgin. Many producers would take 18 months as a general parameter though proper storing conditions could easily extend this term, provided and only provided the oil is of top quality to start with.
If stored properly, protected from heat and light, the oil from Villa Stabbia will maintain its fruity aroma throughout its shelf life, whereas its slightly "piccante" will tend to mellow with time but will in no way lose quality.
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The above are all classifications based on quality. When olives and the subsequent oil from the fruit is produced using only mechanical processes like washing, crushing, decantation, centrifugation and filtering, the oil can be classified as either Extra Virgin, Virgin or Lampante. The final classification is based first of all on a chemical analysis and hence on a "Panel test". The latter is a session where a group of professional tasters judge the oils and each give the oil an organoleptic score, where the mean is then taken for the final score. An extra Virgin Oil must be perfectly in harmony and balanced with no defects.
The word "virgin" indicates that the oil has been produced without any chemical process nor any mixture with other kinds of oil. Virgin olive oils contain the highest levels of polyphenols, antioxidants that have been linked with better health.
As defined by the EU - Extract from Reg. CEE 2568/91/
Acidity (oleic acid) |
Peroxides Number (meq. 02.kg) |
Defects |
|
Extra Virgin Olive Oil | max 0.8 % | less than 20 | None |
Virgin Olive Oil | max 2.0 % | less than 20 | max 3.5 |
Lampante Virgin Olive Oil | min 2.0 % | more than 20 | min 3.5 |
The above is of course only a small extract of the compulsory parameters that determine the olive oil class. These includes a lot of measurements, though most test are tuned to detect frauds and irregularities rather than quality.
All other olive oil categories are obtained by means of cutting (mixing chemically cleaned lampante oil with virgin olive oil for instance), solvents (chemicals or hot water) etc.
The Lampante Virgin Olive Oil is not edible as it is, but needs to undergo further processing. Lampante oil was in the old days used as lamp oil (lamp - lampante....), however when later translated into English, it became light oil - an oil not so fatty!!!
Olive Oils simply labelled as "Olive Oil" are blends of refined (chemically cleansed) Lampante Oil and Virgin Olive Oil. Another type is "Olive Pomace Oil", which again means oil has been extracted from the pomace (the leftovers from the first press) using solvents, mostly hexane, and by heat.
In the traditional method after crushing the olives the resulting mash is submit to pressure in order to separate the solid component (dry cake) from the liquid part (oil and water). The pressure being applied gradually, the first oil to come out, at relatively low pressure is referred to as "first press". The term today has lost most of its original sense, it is not an official quality flag, remaining only as a marketing gimmick.
This means that the oil was not heated over a certain temperature - 27° C (80° F) during processing. Applying heat (or hot water) can yield more oil from the olives, but obviously has on effect on the flavour, and quality of the oil, as well as the oil will be retaining more nutrients and undergoing less degradation.
The acidity is a chemical parameter connected principally with the condition of the original raw material and with its processing - ie bad olives or poor processing of the olives will result in a high acidity.
When olives have been processed under optimal conditions, the acidity is much lower than 0.8% (less than 0.3% in exceptional oils); but when the harvesting has been carried out under really poor hygienic-climatic-technological conditions the acidity can reach up to 10%, which means the oil is no longer eatable and has to be refined.
High acidity occurs when the oil is made from olives that have dropped from the tree and have burst open on the ground; or if the fruit is stored too long before pressing. When olive oil is produced with the healthiest fruit and under optimal conditions acidity is kept low. For that reason a rule of thumb has always been "low acidity = good olive oil". However if it is less than 0.3%, the consumer is in the presence of perfection.
In comparison - the family at Villa Stabbia produces a gourmet oil so pure that it is consistently - year after year - is below 0.3 % acidic. Actually to be even more specific - closer to 0.1 % acidic.
If the label says, "unfiltered", it means that the oil has been left to naturally decanter and remaining sediments will slowly settle on the bottom on the storage tank before bottling. A light deposit might be present at the bottom of the bottle.
If the label says "filtered", the oil has undergone a filtering process to remove all particles of olive.
If the label says "slightly filtered", the oil has undergone a slight filtering process, where paper filters withhold the larger particles of natural sediments which in time would contribute to the decay of the product.
This gives an indication of quality: Is the oil made by a single producer or is it a blend of many - if the producer is even mentioned. Quality producers are usually proud of their own products and will always have their name on the label.
The label may indicate that the oil was bottled or packed in a certain country. This does not necessarily mean that the oil was produced there. The origin of the oil may sometimes be marked elsewhere on the label; it may be a mixture of oils from more than one country. So always check where the grown - produced - or just bottled information.
The date of production is not compulsory in the labelling regulations, a good advice is to buy oils with that extra information. It greatly helps in recognising a good, fresh oil. Quality producers proudly announce the year of production also to ensure the best use of their product.
A dark bottle (or food approved tin) is by far preferred as it protects the oil from alterations caused by light. Leaving some oil in a transparent jar and exposed to light or near a source of heat for a couple of days for instance, will alter the taste and quality of the oil.
If written and with the EU logo for organic farming (or USDA for the USA or JAS for Japan) indicates that the olives have been grown and the oil produced according to the strict guidelines issued by the EU, and continuously inspected by the local representatives. A superior product, free from pesticides
Please note - organic growers using the term "organic" must meet the terms for organic farming, which includes on-farm inspections and documents of support referred to as "certification." Many growers will use various organic practices but choose not to undergo the strict demands required for certification. These farmers may not legally call their products "organic" but may refer to products as raised using "environmentally sustainable methods".
The price of extra-virgin olive oil varies greatly. Two factors are influential: where the olives are grown and which harvesting methods are implemented. Certain locations yield more bountiful harvests; consequently their oil is sold for less. Olive trees planted near the sea can produce up to 20 times more fruit than those planted inland in hilly areas like Tuscany. It is in these land-locked areas though that the olive trees' habitat is pushed to the extreme (just like here in Tuscany) and if the conditions were just a little more severe, the trees would not survive. Extra-virgin oils produced from these trees tend to have higher organoleptic scores.
Hopefully, after having read through all the above, it becomes apparent that a quality olive oil will always have a higher price than mass produced blended oil.
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The only difference between green olives and black olives is
ripeness. Unripe olives are green, whereas fully ripe olives are
black.
And because raw olives are mostly inedible, they will normally
undergo some form of curing process, either by being packed in salt,
brined, pickled, or soaked in oil (or even just water) before being
eaten. Generally, green olives are denser, firmer, and more bitter
than black olives. The taste and texture of any olive, however,
ultimately depend on the method and duration of curation. The longer
the olive - even a green one - is permitted to ferment in its own
brine, the softer it will grow, less bitter and more intricate its
flavor will become.
Green olives are often used as stand-alone snacks or pitted and
stuffed with various fillings, while black olives are commonly used
in cooking, on pizzas, and in salads.
Several factors influence the production yield; the cultural practices like fertilising and pruning will obviously affect the oil percentage in the olive which varies also with the seasonal climate. Though mostly it depends on the olive variety and on the latitude. In Northern Tuscany winters can be very cold with snow and frost, hence the possible varieties are restricted to the ones resistant to such low temperatures. Also summers are not as sunny as in the southern countries resulting in less oil content. Comparing roughly, the production yield of Spain or Sicily is almost double to the yield in Tuscany. At Villa Stabbia 4-5 kg of olives are needed to fill up a 500 ml bottle.
Margerine / Butter | Olive Oil |
1 teaspoon | 3/4 teaspoon |
1 tablespoon | 2 1/4 tablespoon |
1/4 cup | 3 tablespoons |
1/3 cup | 1/4 cup |
1/2 cup | 1/4 cup + 2 tablespoons |
1 cup | 3/4 cup |
100 g | 70 g or 3/4 dl |
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Olive oil is easily digested - and quickly and completely absorbed by the system. In addition, trace components like chlorophyll help the absorption, and the aroma and taste stimulate our appetite - an important assistance for the digestive process.
Some of the proven health benefits are:
The gourmet extra virgin olive oil from Villa Stabbia is extremely versatile, it will endow a salad and raw dishes with a touch of Mediterranean flair, it can be sampled alone on a piece of bread, or perhaps be the final touch on a bowl of soup or other dish, its most simple use is in cooking, to roast, grill or fry food. It is particularly suited to entrées or added to vinegar over a salad.
It is ideal for pastries and baking as it gives exceptionally workable and light dough.
The oil can also be used in preserves like grilled vegetables, wild mushrooms or goat cheese. The reason for this is that olive oil preserves the food from oxidation and natural ageing process, as the oil subtracts the oxygen inside the containers and thus the preserves last longer.
Contrary to myth, olive oil is very good for frying, as its critical temperature - that of molecular deformation - is around 210-220 C. In fact, its composition of fatty acids will not be modified after thermal treatment, even at a temperature of 200 C for 3 hours.
However always remember - at home olive oil must be kept in a clean place, protected from light, at a temperature between 12 and 24 Celsius (54 - 75 F.) - and of course, never ever in the fridge.
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